His Majesty with his people
1 November, 2008 - Ngawang Chozom, 30, from Laptsakha village, left her farm unattended yesterday and walked three hours to the Dzong because she heard that His Majesty the King would be there. She prayed that she would get a glimpse of the royal countenance. At noon she sat on the ground, with thousands of people who were being served lunch, and opened her bangchu. Suddenly His Majesty was there, right in front of her, and poured her a large scoop of red rice.
Ngawang Chozom was the first person to be served by His Majesty. She sat stunned for a long time. Then she was overwhelmed by emotion. She closed her bangchu. “This is not just rice, it is jinlap (blessing),” she said, tears streaming down her face. “I’ll take it home to share it with my old parents.”
People from Punakha, Wangduephodrang, Gasa, and many from other parts of the country left their homes and their fields and gathered at Thangzoena, a broad meadow at the foot of the Punakha Dzong, beside the calm Mochu river, yesterday. In the shade of the tall Junipers, Cypresses, and Eucalyptus trees, they relived Bhutanese history.
His Majesty the King, on the eve of his sacred dar ceremony, spent a relaxed day with His Majesty the fourth Druk Gyalpo, the royal family, and his people.
The entertainment, presented by the people and students of the three dzongkhags was traditional songs, dances, and games. His Majesty and the royal princes played archery with the people.
The people, from all walks of life, shared a variety of perspectives on the Coronation.
For the youth it was about the future and even students about to do their examinations refused to be left out of the celebrations. “This is the beginning of the future,” said a high school student. “If I fail, I can re-sit for the examinations. But this, I will see only once in my life time.”
A retired RBA soldier who had taken part in the march past for the Coronation of the fourth Druk Gyalpo said that it actually took years to understand the full significance of being a part of such celebrations. “It feels like it was only yesterday,” he said. “The future comes quickly. I would advise the youth to enjoy the present.”
A former chimi of Shari village said that, for him, it was enough to see the father and son walk together. “I was there when the fourth Druk Gyalpo was enthroned,” he said. “Today I see his heir walk among us with the same quiet confidence. Tomorrow I will bring my entire family to offer thridar.”
The Layap singers, with their clear voices, were a big attraction at the celebrations. A number of Layap nomads, like Pasang Om and her husband, came to Punakha so that they would not miss this historic moment. “We live up there, but our hearts are here today,” said Pasang.
The celebrations in Punakha carried a strong spiritual tone. The sacred dar ceremony is a direct connection to the Zhabdrung who established Bhutan as a nation state.
Karma Rangdol, a Khenpo at the Kanglung Shedra, said that he had come to pray to the guardian deities for the well being of our King and country. “I pray that our country may prosper even further under the dynamic leadership of the new King.
Tseku Dorji, 73, came from Paro for the celebrations. “Just as we went through an incredible period of history, today’s youth will have their turn,” he said. “Watching a royal father pass his Throne to the son so peacefully is an auspicious sign. My generation can retire into a life of prayer”
For many people the Coronation is an intense emotional experience. One student said that she could not explain her feelings. “I just came to be happy,” she said. A woman from Gasa said that she would not even try to explain her feelings. “I did not come here to talk,” she said. “I just came to pray.”
Chhoemin, of Phayu Chansekha village, is 72 years old. She was a legendary singer in her time. She has sung in village and dzongkhag festivals, for religious and cultural ceremonies, for friends and family, for herself. She had always wanted to sing for her King. She did that yesterday when His Majesty knelt in front of her to listen. The large crowd seems to hush into silence as her aging voice mustered the beautiful strains that had been hers:
Your crown will not touch
the heavens
Your feet will not touch the earth
May your apparel float in between, like the wind
Oh my Bodhisattva
“Now I will be happy even if I die tomorrow,” she said.
By Kinley Dorji & Kesang Dema in Punakha