Today the ban in effect has made tobacco less visible but still available. From the open shelves in shops it has moved to cash boxes, trash cans, sacks of rice, shoes and socks, packed to look like soap bars- any place that would not meet the eyes of officials on inspection.

“What did the ban do besides skyrocketing the price of tobacco?” asks one smoker. “I have not changed my habit and all my friends (smokers) did not too.”

When a young trainee in Paro was asked if the ban had changed her smoking habit, the answer was a quick yes. “The less cigarettes you find, the more you want to smoke,” she said. “Expenditure on cigarettes has doubled.” Another said that he smoked more because he stocked cigarettes.

Many smokers Kuensel talked to say that tobacco is still available from “contacts”.

When the ban was imposed, there was a concern that it would encourage a black market. Today selling tobacco is a lucrative business. For instance, a packet of wills cigarette sold for Nu 25-35 before the ban costs a minimum of Nu 50 with prices going up to Nu 150 in places like Bumthang, the first “Tobacco free dzongkhag”.

According to National Statistical Bureau's quarterly consumer price index report, the price of tobacco in the first quarter of 2005 increased by 48.65 percent compared with 1.29 percent in the third quarter of 2004 (before the ban was imposed).

A packet of Baba chewing tobacco which sold for less than Nu. 2 now costs from Nu.5 to Nu.20. “Thanks to the ban, we have a thriving black market at the cost of those who can't kick the habit,” said one. Some even say that there is a wide network of people involved in the black market involving drivers, check post officials, and shopkeepers.

Despite the strict vigilance at entry points, tobacco products were reaching the market in abundance hidden in vegetable baskets, shoe cartons and meat trucks.

Regulating authorities admit the presence of a thriving black market. According to trade joint director, Dophu Tshering, the high level multi sectoral committee on tobacco control and its sub committees are trying hard to thrash out the market. “It is a big challenge for us,” said the director.

The biggest challenge, according to the director is the authority lacks legal teeth. “There is no clear cut mandate of searching and seizing,” Dophu Tshering said. On the rule, he said that it was a big mistake for allowing people to import tobacco for their own consumption. “This has made tobacco available.”

Authorities cannot do anything on people who sell tobacco products outside the trade's jurisdiction (unlicensed people selling from their homes).

“Although the decision came from the National Assembly, our shortfall is that we have no legal teeth to bite,” says another member of the committee.

Nonetheless, those enforcing the rule say that there had been significant impact. “The rule was not meant to stop people from smoking,” said a official. “But smoking in public places has reduced.”

The trade ministry has cancelled and fined about 15 business licenses around the country so far. This was possible because of increased vigilance, secret agencies, and an intelligence network, say trade officials.

Enforcing agencies say that people should understand the intention of the rule. “We are not intending to wipe out smokers, but support from people at all levels will succeed in clamping down on smugglers,” Dophu Tshering said.

Dophu Tshering sad that vigilance at entry points and check posts will be heightened and attractive incentives given to informants.

Meanwhile, in Thimphu a group of office goers are smoking in the verandah of a bar. “Old habits die hard,” says one. “But we respect public places.”