But today, after a nationwide ban was imposed on December 17,2004, finding a place to buy a packet of cigarette or a packet of baba (chewing tobacco) in Bumthang is difficult, only if you are a stranger.

“If you are new in the town, you won’t find any,” said a town resident. “They sell only to people they know.”

Tobacco is available, the only change is the price.

A packet of cigarette (Wills) costs Nu.100, and a packet of baba Nu. 10.

The huge profit margin had lured people to sell tobacco from their homes to a limited but regular clientele.

“One would think that the shopkeepers are selling doma while they wrap cigarettes and baba in paper and sell under the table,” a regular smoker told Kuensel.

A businessman who recently came from Thimphu told Kuensel that his cigarette stock finished on the way and had a difficult time finding a pack. “But when we send some one, they came back with loads of cigarettes,” he added.

Smoking in public places is also not restricted in the dzongkhag.

It is not unusual to see people freely smoking in bars, hotels and other public gatherings places.

Residents argue that Bumthang is not the only dzongkhag selling tobacco products. “Everybody is selling in black in all the dzongkhags,” one claims.

People say that shopkeepers bring the tobacco products from Phuentsholing. How they escape the concerned officials at various check points remains a mystery.